Action-Man, 16 June, Venice, Italy

Clay apartment buildings close me in on three sides on the island of Murano. I am on a bench in an empty square. I see two old Italian ladies and a boy at a table full of miniature glasswork. There is no one else. Drew is looking for a free toilet, but the island will surely force him to pay a euro. How can they charge for a basic human need?

Murano is an island off Venice. It is famous for its glass blowing and glass products. Drew and I just watched a man pull a glowing clump of orange from the furnace. He sat down and pulled and twisted, and in less than a minute, he formed a horse with a head, a mane and a tail.

I can see Venice from here. Is it true that Venice is supported over the sea by posts? Why didn't they build it on solid ground? Yesterday at the train station, an old gentleman won us over to spend the night at his hotel. He led us through the city to our room as he told us his disgust with the governor of Venice. He pointed to some litter, saying, "He doesn't do anything. He says he's a philosopher, but he's not even that! If he took a shower, he wouldn't get himself clean."

Early this morning, I went out along the Grand Canal for breakfast and got lost. There are no cars here. Everyone walks and uses the water. The water of all the canals is very dirty, because there is little circulation. I bought some bread and fruit and milk. I tried to remember landmarks, but on my way back, each small canal looked like the other. The layout of the city changed as shops opened. I walked past restaurants with tables and trinkets behind windows. The labrynth seemed to have no end.

Sam